Jewel & Jewel

The key to choosing cultured pearls is being able to recognize high quality pearls when you see them. While evaluating the quality of cultured pearls is similar in many respects to evaluating the quality of diamonds, it is far more important with cultured pearls.  Diamonds, as you frequently hear, “Last Forever”. Pearls however, do not. This is because all pearls are relatively “soft” and they will start to show wear with time. The quality of the cultured pearl has a direct bearing on how long that cultured pearl will retain its luster and beauty. The nacre of a cultured pearl is the source of that cultured pearl’s luster and beauty and it is easily worn off if it is thin. The reason that the luster and beauty of a low quality cultured pearl will not last as long as with a high quality cultured pearl is because the low quality cultured pearl has thin nacre. There are seven basic quality factors that are considered in grading pearls. These factors include Nacre Quality and Thickness, Luster, Color, Size, Surface Complexion, Shape and Matching.

Pearl Quality

 Nacre Quality and Thickness
The primary factor in pearl quality is nacre thickness. The thicker the nacre, the more intense the luster and iridescence, and the longer the cultured pearl will retain its beauty. Nacre thickness grades are:  

Luster
Luster is what gives the pearl an intense brightness or brilliancy that comes from the interior of the pearl. Luster is caused by the reflection of light through the layers of nacre.  High quality pearls will appear to have a luminous ball inside the pearl. This luminous ball is an optical illusion caused by contrast between illuminated and shaded parts of the pearl.

Color
Pearl color is composed of both body color and overtone. The most desirable pearl colors will vary depending on the type of pearl and the culture of the buyer. The body colors available in cultured pearls have a wide range and include white, black, gray, cream, yellow, brown, green, gold, pink and blue.
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